Categories
Recipes Savories

Hazelnut Garlic Pesto

A lovely pesto to stir into a pot of pasta, schmear on toast, or toss with roasted veggies.

Ingredients

  • 1/2 cup hazelnuts
  • 1 garlic bulb
  • 1/2 cup parmesan, cubed
  • 1/3 cup olive oil, plus additional for roasting garlic
  • 1/2 teaspoon salt
  • 1/2 teaspoon cracked pepper
  • optional: a few sun-dried tomatoes, rehydrated in hot water; a handful of kalamata olives; a bunch of parsley, stems and all; an anchovy; or some combination thereof

Step-by-step

  • Place hazelnuts on a pan in the oven. Preheat oven to 400°F. Allow hazelnuts to toast for 12-15 minutes while the oven preheats.
  • Slice off a small section from the pointy top of the garlic bulb off, so that a bit of each clove is exposed. Place garlic on a square of aluminum foil. Rub a bit of olive oil around the bulb, sprinkle some salt, and wrap up tightly in foil. Roast in oven until cloves are soft, about 40 minutes. (Hot tip: go ahead and roast a few cloves at once. They keep in the fridge for a while, and they’re lovely in everything from salad dressing to soup to scrambled eggs). Once roasted, it’s easy to remove the garlic cloves from their papery skin.
  • In a blender, pulse roasted garlic cloves, hazelnuts, parmesan, salt, pepper, and any optional add-ins. Once blended into a uniform coarse crumble, add olive oil and blend until smooth. Taste and adjust flavor as needed.
  • To store, pour a thin layer of olive oil on top of the pesto and place, tightly sealed, in fridge. Keeps for several weeks.
Categories
Savories

Sourdough Buckwheat Galette

My very first experience with producing food for other people to buy was making galettes in rural France. I was 18 years old and wwoofing on a farm with a very kooky family who raised cows for milk and rabbits for terrine. They ran a micro bakery producing rustic sourdough bread and galettes, which are savory crepes made with buckwheat flour. 

I turned out to be a galette-making savant. My bony wrists were made for quickly twirling the traditional wooden dowel around the batter to spread and shape the galettes. By the end of my short stay on the farm, the family  let me produce tall, steaming stacks of the thin pancakes unsupervised. Visitors to the farm would buy their raw milk and pick up a dozen galettes to take home and fill with cheese and eggs for a traditional summer lunch. 

For this week’s recipe, I made sourdough galettes. Think of them like a thin pancake you can top with whatever you want, and then fold in half and eat like a taco. Fill them with last night’s veggies, or shave some cheese and crack an egg and let it cook right on the pancakes. 

Want to experiment with sourdough but scared to bake bread? These are a great recipe to get started with! You’ll just need an active sourdough starter, which is easy peasy to whip up!

Equipment

  • crepe spatula, or other long spatula (it will make the flipping the pancake much easier)
  • cast iron or non-stick pan

Ingredients

  • 1/2 cup sourdough discard
  • 1/2 cup buckwheat flour
  • 1 large pinch salt
  • 2 eggs
  • 1/2 cup water
  • butter
  • Fillings of choice (savory: cheese, eggs, veggies, meat; sweet: nutella, banana and honey, sugar and lemon juice)

Step-by-step

  • In a bowl, whisk together eggs and water. Add sourdough discard, flour, and salt and whisk until smooth. It should be thin – closer to creamy soup than traditional pancake batter. The mixture will thicken up a bit as it rests. 
  • Cover and let rest in fridge for 2 hours, or up to several days. The longer it sits in the fridge, the fluffier the galettes will become.
  • Heat pan over medium high heat. Once surface is hot, melt a knob of butter. It should immediately sizzle. Move the pan around using the handle, tipping it in a circle so the butter coats the entire bottom and a bit of the sides.
  • Working quickly, pour batter in a spiral starting at the center. Immediately begin to move the pan around, so the batter thinly but completely coats the bottom of the pan. 
  • After a minute or two, use a spatula to flip the galette. While this other side is cooking, top the galette with fillings of choice.
  • To serve, fold in all four sides of the galette. Form a square picture frame with the toppings in the middle. Or just fold it in half like an omelette!
Categories
Savories

Kimchi Fried Rice

Kimchi fried rice, or Kimchi-bokkeumbap, is a popular korean dish, beloved in its home country and by hipsters the world over. For a classic Korean take, check out Maangchi’s recipe. Mine involves many of my favorite ferments including my beloved kosho and fermented sriracha-style hot sauce. I also add a great kitchen dynamo – fermented ginger-garlic paste (drop us a line if you’d like us to feature a recipe for fermented flavor pastes). And of course tons of kimchi. My favorite kimchi recipe is “Andrew’s Private Reserve Kimchi” from Fermented Vegetables by the Shockeys, or support a local Asian grocery and buy some there. And if you don’t have a fridge full of ferments, no worries. This is a very flexible recipe.

Note: One issue I’ve always had with homemade fried rice is that it feels way mushier than when the pros make it. My solution to this (inspired by the crispy rice salad recipe in Jessica Koslow’s SQIRL, which she probably yanked from an uncredited employee), is to boil the rice a few hours or even the day before. I fluff it up and let it dry out on an uncovered plate in the fridge before frying.

Makes: 1 hungry person

Ingredients

  • 1 cup cooked rice, ideally dried out overnight in the fridge (see note above)
  • 1 cup kimchi
  • neutral cooking oil
  • 1 teaspoon toasted sesame oil
  • 1 teaspoon ginger-garlic paste (or one or two cloves garlic and 1/2 inch ginger, finely minced)
  • 1 tablespoon soy sauce
  • 1 tablespoon mirin
  • 1 tablespoon hot sauce
  • 1 teaspoon kosho (or the juice and zest from half a lime or lemon)
  • gomasio or sesame seeds
  • a few tablespoons chopped cilantro
  • optional finishers: chopped pineapple, thinly sliced kale or bok choi, any leftover cooked veggies, more hot sauce, more kosho, a fried egg

Step-by-step

  • Add a generous pour of cooking oil and sesame oil to a pan over medium heat. Add ginger-garlic paste, giving a quick stir. 
  • Once paste begins to sizzle, add soy sauce, mirin, and hot sauce.
  • Add rice, stirring constantly until liquid is absorbed and rice is hot, about 2 minutes.
  • Add kimchi and continue to stir.
  • Once kimchi is hot, add kosho and a healthy shake or three of gomasio. Stir and turn off heat. If you like some crispy bits, let the pan sit on the stove for a bit so the bottom of the rice starts to brown.
  • Stir in cilantro and any additional finishers of choice.
Categories
Savories

All-Kraut Latkes

I happen to be working my way through several gallons of kraut in an attempt to free up cooler space for all the ferments I’ll be transporting across the state on my impending move. And so, it is with great pleasure that I present to you: The All-Kraut Latke. Homemade sauerkraut will make this snack even more satisfying!

Makes: 8 latkes

Ingredients

  • 4 eggs
  • 6 tablespoons breadcrumbs
  • 6 tablespoons flour
  • 2 tablespoons cornstarch
  • 1 teaspoon salt
  • 2 cups sauerkraut
  • half an onion, thinly sliced
  • canola or other neutral frying oil

Step-by-step

  • Place medium saute pan over medium-high heat and add a generous amount of canola oil. Latkes should be about halfway submerged during frying.
  • While oil is heating, whisk together eggs, breadcrumbs, flour, cornstarch, and salt until well combined. Then mix in kraut and onions.While oil is heating, whisk together eggs, breadcrumbs, flour, cornstarch, and salt until well combined. Then mix in kraut and onions.
  • Test oil by dropping a sliver of kraut in the pan. If it immediately begins to sizzle, it’s hot enough. Drop a clawful of the mixture (about 1/4 cup) in the oil, being careful not to splash oil on your fingers. Repeat to fill the pan, leaving space between each latke. Fry for a few minutes, until bottoms are brown and crispy. Then flip each latke and fry for another couple of minutes.
  • Remove from pan and pat latkes with a thin kitchen cloth to remove excess oil. Enjoy straight from the pan.
Categories
Savories

Greek Frittata

A frittata is a chameleon meal. It works as breakfast, lunch, and dinner. Easy enough to whip up in a hurry, but classy enough to serve for guests. Hearty without being heavy. Excellent vehicle for whatever needs to get used up in your fridge. Here is a Greekish version inspired by the contents of my refrigerator.

Makes: 1

Equipment

  • small oven-safe saute pan

Ingredients

  • 2 eggs
  • 1/4 cup creamy liquid (milk, mylk, half and half, or heavy cream)
  • 1 teaspoon salt
  • olive oil
  • 1/4 cup sliced onion
  • red wine vinegar
  • 1 tomato, chopped
  • handful of arugula or spinach
  • 1/4 cup crumbled feta
  • handful of kalamata olives
  • 2 big pinches oregano, fresh of dried
  • big pinch red pepper flakes

Step-by-step

  • In a cup, marinate the onion slices in a glug of red wine vinegar. The longer the better, but 5 minutes is enough in a pinch. Reserve onions and use the vinegar to dress a side salad.
  • Preheat oven to 425°F.
  • Whisk together eggs, milk, and salt and let sit at room temperature. Giving the eggs and salt time together for 5+ minutes will produce a fluffier texture. If you have extra time, let the mixture come to room temperature for even more fluff.
  • Add a healthy splash of olive oil to the pan (enough to coat bottom and sides)  and heat over medium.
  • Add onions, tomatoes, greens, feta, olives, oregano, and red pepper flakes to egg mixture and stir to combine.
  • Pour mixture into pan. Cook on the stove until the bottom has solidified, about 10 minutes.
  • Transfer to top rack of oven and cook until the top of the frittata has solidified, about 7-8 minutes.
Categories
Savories

Rustic Zucchini and Apple Crostata

This was a fridge cleanout creation. I needed to use up a few random bits before heading off on a leaf-peeping trip to North Carolina. The prospect of those fall colors must be taking over my brain because the result is wonderfully autumnal.

Ingredients

For the pastry crust:

  • 1 stick very cold butter, cut into 1/2 inch cubes
  • 1 1/2 cups flour, plus extra for rolling out dough (whole wheat pastry is great, but whatever you have on hand will work)
  • big pinch salt
  • 1/4 cup ice cold water

For the filling:

  • 1 apple, thinly sliced
  • 1 zucchini, thinly sliced
  • 2-3 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
  • 3-4 scallions, thinly sliced
  • 2 eggs
  • 1 cup grated hard cheese of choice (parm, cheddar, gruyere, etc)
  • 1 teaspoon mustard
  • big pinch salt
  • 1-2 tablespoons chopped herbs of choice (sage, rosemary, parsley, etc)
  • honey for drizzling

Step-by-step

  • To make pastry dough, mix flour and salt in a bowl. Add butter cubes and work in by hand. Aggressively pinch and mix with your fingers until the butter is roughly the size of peas. Try to work fast to keep everything as cold as possible.
  • Pour in water, mixing by hand to create a uniform dough. Depending on the flour used, you may need a bit more water or a bit more flour to achieve the right consistency, which should be smooth, firm and fully hydrated, but not tacky. Shape dough into a thick disc.
  • Allow dough to rest covered in the fridge while prepping the filling. You can also make dough in advance. It will keep in the fridge for several days.
  • Preheat oven to 350°F.
  • Mix together all filling ingredients but the honey so the veggies are uniformly coated.
  • To roll out pastry crust, generously flour work surface and dough. Use a rolling pin to flatten, working from the middle toward the edges in every direction. Flip the dough over and continuously dust with flour, so nothing sticks to the counter. (Or do like my mother and roll the dough out in between two pieces of wax paper!). The goal is a rough circle about a 1/4 inch thick. I often get very uneven jagged edges, which I just rip off and smoosh in where necessary to form a circle-ish shape.
  • To assemble, place the rolled out pastry dough on a parchment or Silpat-lined baking sheet. Add filling in the middle of the circle, leaving an inch border of dough. Drizzle with honey. Fold dough border over on top of the filling.
  • Bake for 35-45 minutes until the crust is brown and the zucchini and apple are softened and browning at the edges.
Categories
Savories

Pasta e Fagioli

My first memory of pasta e fagioli (pasta and beans in Italian) is from Flavors of Italy, a run of the mill Italian-American restaurant my family frequented during my early childhood in Coral Springs, Fla. If memory serves, there was a waterfall in the restaurant, which is very exciting. The pasta e fagioli less so. The basic soup of pasta, cannellini beans, and veggies came automatically before any entree, like miso soup does at many Japanese restaurants. I filed it away as something boring and not worth ordering. 

My next memory of pasta and beans came during our first season at Ground Floor Farm, when Farmer Mike would cook staff lunches of pasta with tomato sauce, throwing in a can of Costco black beans to satiate the famished farm crew. I started out skeptical, but was soon convinced of the merits of putting beans in pasta. Now I do it all the time, particularly when I need something quick but hearty. Here’s an easily adaptable pasta e fagioli you can have on the table in 15 or 20 minutes.

Makes: 1 hungry person

Ingredients

  • 1 cup uncooked pasta
  • 1 cup cooked white beans of choice (canned or cooked from dry)
  • a few cloves garlic, chopped
  • 1 bunch greens of choice, chopped (sorrel, arugula, or callaloo are nice)
  • a sprig or two of rosemary
  • 1/4 cup bread crumbs
  • 1 tablespoon butter
  • olive oil
  • crushed red pepper
  • fennel seed
  • vinegar of choice
  • parmesan

Step-by-step

  • Cook pasta in salted boiling water until al dente.
  • While pasta is cooking, add a glug or two of olive oil to a pan along with garlic. Cook for a few minutes over medium heat, until garlic is fragrant. Add rosemary, a four-fingered pinch of red pepper, and another pinch of fennel seed, and let sizzle for 30 seconds. Add beans and breadcrumbs. Stir.
  • Before draining the pasta, add about 1/3 cup of pasta water to beans and turn heat to high. Add drained pasta, butter, and a splash of vinegar to pan. Stir constantly until the contents have absorbed all of the water. 
  • Stir in greens and grated parmesan. Enjoy!
Categories
Savories

Chickpea + Pomegranate Salad with Feta + Herbs

There is a white pomegranate tree on the property that has been teasing me for the last year. But finally it is dripping with fruit, and I’ve managed to salvage some from the birds. Here is a simple salad I made as a welcome treat for some friends that came to visit over the weekend. We ate it outside on the patio with focaccia and some cold beers.

Categories
Savories

A Very Gringo Peanut Sauce

I made this from ingredients I already had in my pantry. It’s reminiscent of a Thai peanut curry, or a Malaysian satay, but less nuanced. It is, however, very delicious and the only step is “put everything in a blender”. To turn it into dinner, make rice or noodles, saute or roast some veggies, toss in sauce, and top with herbs. And that’s all she wrote.

Or just dip your celery sticks in some!

For excellent Asian recipes created by women of color, I love the sites Rasa Malaysia, Hot Thai Kitchen, and Maangchi.

My lunch in the photo is the peanut sauce mixed with black rice noodles, sauteed red onion, katuk and thai basil from the garden.

Ingredients

  • 1/2 cup peanut butter
  • 1/2 cup coconut milk
  • 3 tablespoons soy sauce
  • 4 teaspoons lime juice (or lemon or yuzu)
  • 2 teaspoons rice vinegar ( or other light vinegar)
  • 2-3 garlic cloves
  • 1-2 inches peeled ginger
  • 1-2 teaspoons hot pepper 
  • 1-2 teaspoons salt

Step-by-step

  • Blend ingredients together until smooth. Taste and adjust flavor as needed.
Categories
Savories

Bean + Herb Soup with So Much Garlic

It’s been a rough couple weeks y’all. But a comforting bowl of warm soup goes a long way towards soothing most ailments, physical and emotional. I think my Italian peasant foremothers would approve of this simple dish.

I’m trying to work my way through the little half-finished jars of condiments and fermentation experiments in my fridge. When I pickle veggies with garlic cloves (which is most of the time), I like to save all the garlic covered in brine. It’s like a much better version of pre-peeled garlic. I used one whole jar of pickled garlic cloves for this soup (about 30 cloves). If that sounds scary to you, feel free to reduce. But know that the slow boil mellows out the garlic flavor significantly. Raw garlic cloves are totally fine if you don’t have any pickled ones handy.

Ingredients

  • olive oil
  • 8-12 cups of stock (or salted water with a generous pour of white wine)
  • 1-2 cups dried chickpeas, soaked in plenty of water for 12-24 hours
  • 20-30 peeled garlic cloves (if you got pickled, that’s great!)
  • 1/2 an onion, chopped
  • 3-4 celery stalks, chopped (throw is a carrot or two if you want)
  • 2 big pinches of fennel seed
  • 1 big pinch red pepper flakes
  • salt and pepper to taste
  • about 1 cup roughly chopped fresh parsley and basil (add a bit of rosemary, oregano, and/or sage if desired)
  • optional: freshly grated parmesan

Step-by-step

  • In a pot over medium heat, add one or two healthy glugs of olive oil. Saute onions and celery for 20-30 minutes, stirring occasionally, until onions are soft and golden. 
  • Add fennel seed, red pepper flakes, and garlic cloves and saute for another minute or two. 
  • Drain chickpeas (which have been soaking in water on the counter overnight), rinse, and add to pot along with stock. Bring to a boil, then reduce heat and allow contents to gently simmer for one or two hours. If liquid is evaporating too fast, add in more water and turn down the heat. Taste and season with salt and pepper. Perhaps add honey, vinegar, or miso, if that’s what it needs. The soup is ready when chickpeas and garlic are soft and the flavor is deep and rich.
  • Right before serving, stir in herbs. Grate parmesan on top. Serve with crusty bread if possible.